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Hoanib
Looking for Desert Elephants

I was aware that the Hoanib was a hot spot of desert elephant activity so naturally when we lived in Namibia I would spend as much time as possible camping there. Trouble was that access there was difficult and camping a risky business if you are traveling in one vehicle as Clarissa and I were in our own Toyota 4x4. In the early 1990s the Hoanib was a remote and seldom visited place so you never saw another vehicle when you were there. It was very wild! There was consequence if you broke down - a long walk out!

1/11 : Our vehicle looks very insignificant in the bed of the Hoanib River.
An image looking down on the wide dry snad bed of the Hoanib River. A tiny vehicle can be seen on the barely visible track that follows the bed.
2/11 : First night on arrival at the lower Hoanib.
An image of  a 4x4 vehicle parked on a sand drift with a small tent pitched nearby. In the background is the sandy bed of the Hoanib flanked by high surrounding bountains.
3/11 : Some mornings, fog from the coast would flow up the river valley.
An aerial image of a Paul Augustinus encampment in the sandy bed of the Hoanib. The surroundings are completely obscured by fog.
4/11 : Desert elephant could be encountered anywhere along the lower reaches of the Hoanib.
An image of a suspicious desert elephant with ears and trunk extended.
5/11 : Encounters with desert elephant were often unexpected.
An image of a desert elephant walking along the bed of the Hoanib, with the steep rocky valley sides crowding in on both sides.
6/11 : Then there were the really surprising encounters with wildlife.
An image of two jiraffe negotiating a very rocky slope, up the side of the Hoanib Valley. Jiraffe usually are never found in this kind of environment.
7/11 : Giraffe are never usually found in this kind of surroundings either.
An image of a jiraffe walking through dune and desert scenery of the lower Hoanib where it enters the Namib Desert.
8/11 : At midday I would pull the tarp over the vehicle for shade.
An image of Clarissa Augustinus drinking a cup of coffee in the cab of our vehicle. A tap provided shade for the middle hours of the day.
9/11 : Sometimes caves were good places to make camp at night.
An image of Clarissa Augustinus waking up in the morning, with a matress having been pulled into a large rock overhang for protection.
10/11 : On 2 occasions we were woken up by the sounds of black rhino browsing right next to where we were camped.
An image of a black rhino grazing off a bush in a dry river bed. Flash photo taken at night.
11/11 : Our Hoanib camping trips were amongst the most interesting we had undertaken.
An image of  Paul Augustinus standing on the roof of their 4x4 safari camper vehicle, with Clarissa lookig up at him and in the background is the spectacular and rocky valley of the Hoanib River.

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