Almost as a whim I decided to head for Etosha and see if I could put up with all the rules and regulations of a tourist destination. We booked one of the bungalows right next to the waterhole at Okaukejo for a few weeks and then set off from Swakopmund. I was very surprised how good the camp waterhole was. It was possible to sit all day on a bench and watch spectacular events unfold while everyone else had gone out on game drives. Lions ambushing kudu and springbok were very easy to observe. I saw more lion chases here than I had seen in the previous 15 years and also black rhino came down to drink during the day and the night!