'One of the few places in India where you can actually trek in forest inhabited by tigers is Bandhavgarh Tiger Reserve, and this only because there is an important Hindu temple and pilgrimage site on top of a high mountain plateau, which is inhabited by tigers. The only requirements are that your guide arrange for a permit, so that you can stay on the mountain for the entire day. The climb, along a narrow jungle enclosed path, is a strenuous one, and access to the plateau is gained via an ancient door in the wall of the ruins at the top - ruins owned to this day by the Maharajah of Rewa. It is here that the tiger trekking starts, amongst ancient ruins, along a short path that leads to an occupied temple. Beyond this temple the forest-covered plateau is a maze of overgrown ruins, that would take days to fully explore. Our guide and friend, Vivek Sharma, stealthily led us through some dense forest to an ancient banyan tree with a stone seat ring around it. “I have seen tigers here often,” he declared. He continued, “I will check ahead to see if there are any around,” but nothing was there. After a couple of hours wandering along paths, we came to a ruin, where we found the bones of a recently killed sambar. Nearby, he found a tree lacerated by the scratch marks of a tiger and some fresh tiger scat. This was exciting stuff, but I wished I could see a tiger actually scratching a tree. I knew it would make a striking painting. I would have to wait 8 years before my wish was granted, on another visit to Bandhavgarh, and the result is the painting opposite.'

.